The Miradouro da Encumeada sits at 1,007 metres above sea level at a mountain pass called Boca da Encumeada, in the geographic centre of Madeira. Most visitors encounter it on the ER228 between Ribeira Brava and São Vicente, a road that climbs through eucalyptus and laurel forest before the ridge opens up and sky appears on both sides.
The pass cuts directly across Madeira’s central mountain spine, so on a clear day you can look south towards the Atlantic and north towards São Vicente Bay from the same spot. There’s a small car park, a café-bar, and a few trail information boards.
How to Get to the Miradouro da Encumeada
From Funchal, the most direct route is west along the via rápida to Ribeira Brava, then north on the ER228 through the valley. The drive takes around 35 to 40 minutes. From São Vicente on the north coast, the pass is about 20 minutes south along the same road.
The SIGA line 6 bus route between Funchal and São Vicente passes through Encumeada, though it runs only once daily in each direction, which makes timing a visit around it quite restrictive. A hire car is considerably more practical and opens up the rest of the island’s interior at the same time. If you plan to spend time in the central mountains, consulting a reliable map of Madeira before you set off helps considerably when navigating the mountain roads.
Panoramic Views of the North and South Coasts of Madeira
On a clear morning, Encumeada delivers one of the most complete perspectives on Madeira’s geography from a single fixed point. To the south, the Ribeira Brava valley descends sharply, with terraced hillsides dropping away in stages towards the coastline. To the north, the valley of São Vicente unfolds in the opposite direction, steeper and greener, with cloud often gathering along the higher ridges.
Conditions at the pass shift quickly. Cloud settles on the ridge regularly, particularly through the afternoon and during the wetter months between October and March. Mornings are reliably better for clear sightlines in both directions, though even a clear morning offers no guarantees.
Understanding how cloud and rainfall vary across the island helps with planning. Madeira’s weather follows a clear north-south divide, and Encumeada sits precisely at the boundary between the two microclimates, which is partly why visibility here is less predictable than on the coast.
Walking and Hiking Trails from Encumeada
Encumeada is one of the main access points for hiking in Madeira’s central range, and several marked routes begin at or pass through the pass.
PR 12 Caminho Real da Encumeada
The PR12 Caminho Real da Encumeada is a 12.5-kilometre moderate trail that runs point-to-point from Boca da Corrida Viewpoint to the Encumeada pass, taking around five hours to complete. It follows an old cobbled Royal Path through laurisilva forest, passing around Pico Grande at altitudes between 830 and 1,323 metres.
Worth knowing before you go: the route currently requires advance payment through the SIMplifica portal (€4.50 per adult), and as of early 2026 it’s only accessible between Boca da Corrida and kilometre 3.5. Check current conditions on the official IFCN Madeira website before planning your day around it.
PR 1.3 Vereda da Encumeada
The PR1.3 Vereda da Encumeada is an 11.2-kilometre moderate trail that runs from the Casa de Abrigo shelter near Pico Ruivo westwards along the central mountain range to Encumeada, taking around five hours one way. It passes through both laurisilva forest and the volcanic terrain of the central massif, with maximum altitude of 1,764 metres. However, the route is currently closed. Check IFCN for updates.
For a broader overview of the island’s trail network across different difficulty levels, the guide to hiking in Madeira covers the main options.
What to See Around Serra de Água
The village of Serra de Água sits in the valley below the pass, about five minutes by road. It’s a small agricultural settlement with a handful of local restaurants and stone houses on the hillside. Tourist traffic is minimal, and the village gives a clear sense of how the island’s interior functions away from the coast.
The valley between Serra de Água and Ribeira Brava is worth a slow drive. After rainfall, waterfalls run off the hillsides and are visible directly from the road. Ribeira Brava town, about 15 minutes further south, is a reasonable stop on the way back to Funchal. It’s a small coastal settlement with a market, a historic church, and a noticeably quieter atmosphere than the capital.
Practical Tips for Visiting the Encumeada Viewpoint
- Go in the morning: Cloud builds reliably through the afternoon, particularly between October and March. Arriving before midday gives the best chance of seeing both coasts simultaneously.
- Bring a layer: At 1,007 metres, temperatures run noticeably cooler than Funchal, often by five degrees or more. A light jacket is useful even in summer. In winter, the pass can be genuinely cold.
- Do not rely on the café being open: It serves coffee, bolo do caco, and regional products, but hours are inconsistent. Carry food and water if you’re heading up specifically to hike.
- Arrive early at weekends: The car park fills quickly during peak season when walkers gather for early starts. Before 9am avoids most of the congestion.
- Check trail conditions: Both the PR12 and PR1.3 have current access restrictions. Check current trail status at IFCN or Visit Madeira for up-to-date information.
Planning Your Trip to Madeira
Encumeada works well as part of a full day in the island’s interior. Pair it with a drive north to São Vicente or south through the Ribeira Brava valley after a morning walk, and you have a solid sense of what Madeira’s highlands offer.
A self-catering base gives you the flexibility to structure days like this on your own terms, without being tied to hotel meal times or checkout pressures. If you’re still looking for somewhere to stay, Atlantic Holiday Rentals has a range of apartments and villas across the island worth looking at when you’re ready to plan.
